Elements of Board Design

There are too many variables involved in designing a surfboard to unconditionally say exactly how specific design element will behave every time, especially since the design elements all influence each other. We can simplify things a bit by saying that all of the design elements serve only two purposes (speed and control) and that the whole goal of designing a magic board is to strike a perfect balance between these two. Of course we’re back off the deep end, though, when we factor in the ocean and people, both of which are extremely variable. Therein lies the brilliance of an experienced shaper: considering the variables and mixing the elements into a board that works. So while you can’t really just throw all of the following descriptions together and get a magic board, hopefully they will give you a basic idea of what each element adds to the mix.

The Tail

The general guidelines for the tail are that volume (thickness and width) maximizes speed and minimizes control. So, in theory, a wider, thicker tail will generate more speed than a thinner, narrower one, but will be less responsive and more prone to spin out. A thinner, narrower tail won’t generate as much speed, but will offer more control. Of course, there’s a delicate balance involved, and these tradeoffs eventually cancel themselves out after a certain point, but these are the general guidelines.

Tail Width

The width of the tail is measured 12” up from the back end of the board. This dimension can range from around 13” for a gun to 17” for a fish, but most boards right now are around 14”. Generally, the smaller and mushier the wave the wider the tail should be, while the taller and heavier the wave the narrower the tail should be.

Tail Shapes

Squash

This is the most popular tail shape. Since it has more planing area than other tail shapes, it generates a little more speed out of turns and offers more of a “punchy” feeling. It’s a versatile tail shape and works well in almost all conditions, except for extremely thick and hollow waves where it’s extra planing area might give it a tendency to spin out. You could, of course, you could get a super pulled (extra narrow at the end) squashtail that will work in heaving thick waves...but why not just get a pintail or rounded pin at that point?

Roundtail

This is also a popular tail shape. Since it has a little less area, it holds in a little better than a squash but loses some of the punch out of turns. Roundtails surf with more of a smooth “slotted” feel and work well in steeper waves. They also help stabilize landings if you’re into airs.

Swallowtail

The basic theory behind the swallowtail is to keep the outline (area and punch) of a squashtail but to notch the center to give it a little more bite (holding power). The compromise works, but it makes for a more fragile tail.

Pintail

This tail is usually reserved for “real surf, big surf, survival surf.” The whole point (punmeister…) of this tail shape is to sink the tail for maximum holding power in the type of waves where you don’t need to get speed from turning. Sometimes variations of this shape will show up in shorter boards, but the roundtail is more of a mainstay.

Rounded Pin

The rounded pin, like it says, is a midway point between the roundtail and pintail. This shape works really well for waves that are really round or powerful enough to make your regular board jittery (or anytime you want a little more holding power, really…).

Squaretail

The squaretail is pretty similar to a squash, but has more extreme tendencies. A squaretail can have more area than a squash, which leads to a punchier board that might feel more “corky” and spinout-prone. On the other hand, a screwdriver-type squaretail will have less tail area than a squash, which leads to less punch but more holding power.

The Nose

The width of the nose is measured 12” back from the tip of the board. This dimension can range from around 10.5” to 13”, but most high-performance boards right now are around 11”. Generally, a wider nose will deliver more paddling power and generate more drive, and a narrower nose will give more maneuverability. You can find your balance pretty easily on this one; if you feel like you’re swimming instead of paddling…go a little wider.

Outline

A straighter outline will generate more speed while a curvier outline offers more maneuverability because of its tighter turning radius (the phrase “turn on a dime” applies here).

Width

The narrower the board the easier it is to turn rail to rail. Most pros ride their boards around 18.25” to 18.5” wide these days. If you try a board like that and find yourself struggling to catch waves (and keep up your speed once you finally catch one), add width until you find the mix of paddling power and maneuverability that works for you.

Wide Point

Generally, the further up the board’s wide point is the more drive (speed) it will have; the further back the more maneuverable (since it puts the center of the turning radius further back).

Thickness

As a general rule, thicker boards are faster while thinner boards are more responsive. You can usually tell if a board is too thin (low volume) for you because you’ll have a difficult time catching waves and will lose speed in turns. Again, it’s just a matter of finding the balance that works for you.

The Rails

Rail Volume

The general rule for rail volume is that a thinner rail sinks easier while a thicker rail goes faster. The trick is finding the balance: a rail that is too thin will loose speed in turns, but one that’s too thick won’t want to turn as easily. It’s all a matter of finding what works for you.

Edges

In theory, hard edges release water more quickly, which generates massive speed, while soft edges forfeit speed for increased control. And this increased control allows the rider to position himself or herself in a faster part of the wave. Once again, it comes down to what works for you.

Rocker

Basically, flatter equals faster while more rocker equals more maneuverability. Of course, there’s a balance; if a board has so much rocker that it’s plowing water, it’s not going to be very maneuverable. Likewise, if a board is so flat that it’s nearly impossible to turn, it’s going to loose a lot of speed. Many modern high-performance boards find the balance by keeping a flatter rocker between the feet and gradually adding rocker to the nose and tail. As boards get bigger, though, the rocker gets more continuous.

Nose Rocker (flip)

More rocker in the nose makes for a more forgiving board in the critical section of a good wave. Less rocker makes the board faster but less forgiving. A few years back, boards had extremely flipped noses. They’ve kind of flattened out to an ideal balance lately.

Tail Rocker (kick)

More rocker in the tail makes for a tighter turning radius in the critical section of a good wave. Too much, though, can slow the board down.

Bottom Contours

Concave

Concave adds lift and speed to a board. Modern high-performance boards have become so low-volume (in terms of rails, width, and thickness) that concave has become a necessity for lift and speed.

Vee

Vee is pretty much the opposite of concave. It helps the board turn rail to rail and is usually found in the tail. Too much vee, however, will slow a board down (like a water plow).

Channels

Channels work well in hollow, powerful waves, but they aren’t as versatile as the other bottom options. If you look around, you won’t see many pros riding channels; there’s probably a reason for this. However, if your homebreak is a screaming, heaving freight train with no room for cutbacks, channels might be your thing.